JING THEORY

One of the greatest Beijing opera singers in modern history, Mei Lanfang elevated the art to a new height and brought it to the world stage.  This was sumptuously depicted in avant-garde film director Chen Kaige’s biopic of the singer’s life, Forever Enthralled. Lesser-known is his epicurean tastes, marked by a deep respect for simple flavours, seasonality, and quality ingredients.

Mei Lanfang in one of his famous cross-dressing roles

Today, an ode to the performer’s culinary persona is found inan elegant 200-year old courtyard in the depths of Beijing’s ancient hutongs. Finding it is part of the journey, wander through the maze of alleys just west of Houhai lake or jump on a rickshaw and ask the drivers to lead you there.

The former home of a Qing Dynasty concubine, the courtyard was converted by Mei’s son as a tribute to his father, and marries 1920s charm with a contemporary touch. Mei’s stage costumes and old photos are scattered throughout. Pebbled walkways lead to four dining salons furnished with stained glass and antiques, and on most nights, an old gramophone playing classic Beijing opera is heard wafting through the courtyard.

One of four dining rooms

Mei Lanfang observed a strict diet low in sugar and sodium, but one that did not compromise on flavour.  He famously depicted the ideal female form on stage and ate to ensure his feminine physique, porcelain skin and delicate voice were well-maintained.  His favorite was Huaiyang cuisine, the school of cooking derived from Yangtze that champions fresh ingredients and delicate flavours. You won’t find fiery chilies here, as Mei believed they damaged his throat and skin.

Mei Lanfang and Charlie Chaplin

What you do find is a spectacular array of dishes carefully prepared by a fourth generation successor of Mei Lanfang’s personal chef at the turn of the last century. The recipes, painstakingly preserved and passed down through generations, are all Mei’s favorites, from red braised pork to lightly sautéed crystal shrimp.

There is no menu. The chef decides what to serve each day based on the season and what is fresh at market that day. You call ahead with your price range- usually 300RMB or 500RMB, but goes up to 2000RMB- and your menu is then transcribed in red ink brushes onto rice paper fans. The matronly waitress asks if you have any allergies, and the journey begins.

Our menu, hand written on a paper fan

On a recent visit, dishes flowing out of the kitchen included Huaiyang standards of glistening Dongpo pork as well as more unconventional ones like chopped quail and sautéed water chestnuts.

A highlight was Citrus-Fragrant Gansi – a dish of thinly sliced tofu skin in an umami-rich scallop broth, served in a hollowed orange.  The restaurant’s signature dish, and what Mei ate before every performance, is the Mandarin Duck Chicken Congee.  According to Chef Wang, it takes 48 hours to braise the minced chicken until it reaches the consistency of rice porridge. Topped with a dash of vegetable juice, the result is an elegant and light dish perfect for ending a meal.

When asked if Chen Kaige’s blockbuster movie brought the restaurant extra attention, Fang Qiang, seneschal of Mei Mansion muses that although it did bring more customers, the space at each seating is limited, maintaining a “perfect cultural experience” for guests.

Tip: call ahead to book a private Beijing opera performance in the courtyard with your dinner. Guzheng performances can be requested as well.  Make sure to ask for a guided tour through the courtyard’s rooms and artifacts.

kaofu, braised spongy wheat gluten and young bamboo shoots

Duck terrine marinaded in a light vinegar and soy sauce

Salted mustard greens and beans

thinly sliced and rolled cucumber pickled in a sweet brine

Salted cod fish

one-bite deep fried crispy shrimp

Three Cup Duck, marinaded in a sauce based on three parts rice wine, soy sauce and lard

Lightly sweetened red dates

drunken chicken steeped in rice wine

glutinous rice cakes

triple boiled chicken soup

Lightly battered fresh river shrimp in caramel and walnut

sesame encrusted red braised beef ribs

roasted goose

Cumin rubbed pork ribs

Steamed and lightly seasoned skate

Scallops in vermicelli

sauteed green beans and peppers

Baby bok choi and mushrooms

vegetable fried rice

dessert herbal soup with wood ears, dates, goji berries

Mei Mansion 梅府家宴
24 Daxiangfeng Hutong, Houhai,
后海大翔凤胡同24号
66126845/66126847
meifujiayan@yahoo.com.cn
11am-2pm; 5:30pm-10pm
300RMB-2000RMB pax

http://www.meifujiayan.com